The Duchess' Jam... Setting Things Right
"The past is a foreign country... they do things differently there” L.P. Hartley
This week I have been thinking about jam, a privileged Duchess and my time with a bunch of flawed, wonderful jam makers.
Preserving memories
One of my first jobs was to work quality control in a small inner-city factory that made jam-like fillings for inclusion into baked goods. These ‘jams’ would end up as biscuit and cake fillings where they would substitute for raspberry and strawberry jam.
Even though the year was 1987, this factory was straight out of the 1940’s. It was small, run-down and with a unionised workforce and feeble management that prevented any improvement. It was a time before third-party audits and workplace safety. Looking back, it now seems like a foreign country.
The layout and process had not changed in 30 years and consisted of 3 banks of 3 open copper kettles. There was 1 cook for each bank of kettles. The cooks all had sad personal stories, but they showed up every morning to work a hard and dangerous job.
The cook I worked closest with was Barry, a friendly man in his mid-thirties. Barry would start his day by pumping apple puree into the copper kettles. The apples were pureed by Henry- a mentally scarred World War 2 veteran. Henry had a terrible temper, was master of insults and could throw an apple surprisingly hard.
Granny Smith apple puree was used as the base for these ‘Jams’, because signature fruits such as strawberry were too expensive. Granny Smith apples also contained significant pectin which helped the ‘Jam’ gel.
After adding the apple, Barry would heat the puree while adding citric acid and sugar… lots of sugar! He would constantly stir the kettle contents with large wooden paddles until it was boiling ferociously. Jam would spit and stick to exposed skin.
The ‘Jam’ would boil for a time and then Barry would take a small sample and test it in a refractometer. This would tell Barry how much dissolved sugar was in the mix. He kept boiling and testing with his refractometer until the mix was 65% dissolved solids (Brix)- a quick way to measure the sugar content in jam. Note: This brix level is necessary for gelling and preservation.
Tech Talk
Jam requires pectin, sugar and acid to gel. Pectin is a natural polysaccharide found in the cell walls of fruits and vegetables. When pectin is combined with the correct proportions of acid and sugar, the jam or jelly will form a soft, spreadable gel. Sometimes sufficient pectin for gelling or thickening can be derived from the fruit. However, usually pectin (extracted from citrus or apple peel) will need to be added.
Dissolved sugars (from fruit plus added sugar) play an important role in the setting of a jam. The presence of high sugar causes a dehydration effect that results in water being pulled away from the pectin molecules, allowing them to move closer to facilitate the formation of a gel.
We measure the amount of sugar by measuring the refractive index of the solution to give a reading of soluble solids. We define this value as degrees Brix. In the case of jam, most of the solids are sugar. Therefore, a 65 Brix jam contains approximately 65% dissolved sugar.
Acid is also critical for the formation of a gel. Traditional jams require an acid environment with a pH <3.5. Fruit is naturally acidic. However, extra acid is usually added in the form of citric or lemon juice.
With the brix on target, Barry would add a pectin solution, colours and flavours. I would test the sample for gel strength, brix and pH- all while having to listen to a series of brutal life lessons. If all was OK, Barry would pump the jam into pails for them to cool and gel.
These sugar-laden spreads would then be sent to be included in jam rolls, biscuits and cake fillings.
Brief history of jam
Evidence of fruit preserves pre-dates the Roman Empire and was a means of preserving fruit to endure the long winters. These ancient preserves were largely concentrated honey and fruit pastes, which would have produced a stable, thick, sweet paste.
As trade routes opened, sugar became available as a cooking ingredient, where it was used to make cleaner tasting and more luxurious jams. Unfortunately, the scarcity of sugar meant that jam was available only to Royals and the Aristocracy.
One such beneficiary of this ‘jam privilege’ was Prince Harry’s great-great-great-grand mother, Queen Victoria. Queen Victoria’s use of jam expanded well beyond spreads and saw jam being included into cakes and other baked goods.
Seemingly, the love of jam has never left the House of Windsor. Prince Harry is reportedly a big fan of jam in baked goods and especially loves Jam Roly-Polys and Peanut Butter and Jam Muffins.
Also, Harry’s father, King Charles, has kept the Royal jam legacy alive by developing a non-profit jam business, The Duchy Collection- a high quality, organic jam range that is high in fruit and dissolved sugars.
Loyalty tested
Meghan Markle is a polarizing character, so it was no surprise that the release of her As Ever ‘Jam’ would be divisive with critics hating, and fans loving, her new raspberry fruit spread.
Opinions may vary, but there is consensus on two things: her Jam is tart and has a thin/runny texture. These characteristics are either mocked or celebrated depending one’s view of Meghan Markle.
After being raised on high quality, high-fruit jams, I wonder what Harry thought of Meghan’s jam? I hope he has good diplomacy skills.
What’s in a name
Remember: It is possible to make a raspberry fruit spread using apple, flavours and colours. Food technologists can also use creative techniques to reduce the fruit or sugar content of jam.
To avoid the tendency to ‘cheapen’ jam, regulations have been established in many jurisdictions. Where jam is regulated, it is subject to standards regarding minimum fruit content, fruit-to-sugar ratio, and soluble solids (Brix).
These are clearly outlined in this snapshot from the Duchy Organic range:
‘As ever’
Most reviews, and often Meghan Markle herself, refer to the “As ever” Raspberry Fruit Spread as a jam.
Looking at the ingredient listing, it looks like a jam, and shares the same ingredient listing as King Charles’ raspberry jam:
Raspberries, Organic Cane Sugar, Organic Lemon Juice Concentrate, Fruit Pectin.
However, while Meghan’s spread might look like a jam, why is it labelled as a “Fruit Spread”? Most likely this is due to the brix (dissolved sugar) being too low.
The clue here is the reviews of its tartness. Remember: Sugar offsets tartness.
This may also explain why the product has failed to gel. Remember, we need a brix of approximately 65 degrees and a high acidity (pH<3.5) to form a pectin gel.
Why not just make it a jam?
Meghan may have simply wanted a lower sugar ‘jam’. However, the decision may have also been impacted by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer did not have specialised equipment, the time taken to concentrate the jam mix to 65 Brix may have led to a dark, ‘burnt’ tasting product. It may have also come down to cost… the lower the brix the lower the price.
A low methoxyl pectin solution
Pectin comes in a variety of forms. One way pectin is differentiated is via the amount of natural methoxylation.
High methoxyl pectin (methoxylation >50%) are the most commonly used in jams and require sugar and acid to gel.
Pectin also comes in a low methoxyl version (methoxylation <50%). These pectins are somewhat special in that they do not need sugar to gel. Instead, LM pectins gel in the presence of free calcium (calcium ions).
If Meghan was to use Low Methoxy (LM) pectin, she could have gelled the product with lower added sugar and a much higher pH (lower acidity). However, for this to work, Meghan would have needed modify the recipe and add a calcium ion such as: Calcium Chloride (E 509). This would most likely have been ‘off-brand’ for the Duchess.
Conclusion
Whether you prefer your preserves at 65 Brix with perfect gel structure or embrace the tart, runny rebellion of Meghan’s fruit spread, at least we can agree that life is better with those fruity, sweet spreads.
Though I suspect Barry would have strong opinions about calling anything with insufficient Brix a 'jam' - some standards, after all, are worth preserving.